In California, if you're cooking one tri-tip roast, buy USDA Choice at Ralphs, which is much better than Vons/Safeway/Albertsons etc.. If making two or more, buy USDA Choice at Costco. Some Ralph's stores offer USDA Prime tri-tip, which is everything you would hope it to be, but you're not ready for it, so wait until you are a master. Look for healthy, bright, not too pale, but not too dark, red flesh, with no sign of browning. Roasts that show surface moisture should be avoided. Among equals, try to find the roast with the most white marbling through the meat. Tri-tips are two to a cow, and are removed intact, so size will not vary much. Count on one roast for three hungry adults or 4-5 adults if served with sides worth eating. I must warn you- if you follow these directions, you and/or your guests may want to eat little else. Also, it makes the best next-day sandwiches, hot or cold, so it always helps to buy a little more.

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